Something’s brewing: Construction starts at Union Works Brewing Co.

The Humboldt brewery promises a variety of beers and food as the former Wonder Bread building undergoes a massive remodel project. The business likely won't open until early 2022.

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May 28, 2021 - 3:42 PM

Tony Works stands outside the future home of Union Works Brewing Co. in Humboldt. Photo by Trevor Hoag / Iola Register

HUMBOLDT — Something’s brewing at the old Wonder Bread building in Humboldt.

Construction has taken off on Union Works Brewing Co., a new brewery/restaurant, for which structural tasks should be completed in November.

As for opening, it’s difficult to pinpoint, said B&W systems support manager, Tony Works, “but it could be first quarter 2022.”

Union Works is a project that’s been bubbling for several years, but has faced obstacles such as finding the most suitable locale.

“The idea of a restaurant/brewery or brew pub started with an idea not in this location,” Works noted, and said the original plan was to house it in the flower shop building near the square.

“Unfortunately, we learned that that property was within 200 feet of a school,” Works explained. 

“We’re about 205 feet from the Assembly of God building now,” he laughed, but that five feet makes all the difference legally.

“There’s a lot of square footage, and I really love the arched ceiling tresses,” said Works of the Wonder Bread building.

“Though we decided pretty early that the floor was going to have to come out.”

Once a location was established, Hufft design and fabrication studio of Kansas City put together the vision, after initially consulting on the pub’s kitchen.

Lloyd Builders of Ottawa is now stepping in to turn that vision into reality.

As for the style of the brewery, Hufft also designed the nearby Humboldt Fitness Center, so imagine some synergy in appearance.

“We’re transforming the outside of the building quite a bit,” Works observed.

Of course, at day’s end, it’s really all about the beer.

“I’ve been home-brewing for 10 years,” Works said. “I still have one bottle of the first batch I brewed.”

It was important to us to have a very wide, broad concept.

Tony Works

He also tried growing his own hops and barley, though the going was rough.

As far as his favorite beer varieties go, “I like everything,” Works laughed. “There’s nothing I won’t try. And what I like changes through the seasons.”

Serendipitously, that means multiple Union Works brews should be available at a given time.

“We’ll have six or so serving tanks,” noted Works, “and we’ll tend to just keep that on tap.” 

“We purchased the equipment and have had it for a couple years,” he added.

By contrast, “there’s not a whole lot of emphasis on bringing in outside beer.”

“We’ll try to brew what people want, though maybe not 100% rice and corn,” Works grinned.

He’s also excited about his mysterious brewmaster who “has run his own brewery before.”

Tony Works talks about design plans for inside the Union Works building. Photo by Trevor Hoag / Iola Register
Tony Works shares some of the history behind how Union Works came into being. Photo by Trevor Hoag / Iola Register
Tony Works leans on scaffolding while explaining how nonprofit organization A Bolder Humboldt is focused on both creating amenities for residents while bringing in outside dollars. Photo by Trevor Hoag / Iola Register
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“This person is a local person,” Works hinted. “And it’s a story of leaving home, doing cool things and coming back.”

As far as dinner options go, in contrast to local rumors, “it’s never been a steakhouse concept,” Works explained.

“People love steak, and we’ll have steak, but it’s not the focus.”

Instead, “it was important to us to have a very wide, broad concept.”

“It’s going to be both broadly upscale and casual: burgers, fries, sandwiches, chicken.” The brewery will also feature pizza made in a wood-fired oven.

“A local place is needed where you can take your wife for Valentine’s Day,” Works said. “But we also want to be a place where you can take your kids after a baseball game.”

“So there’s going to be a transition from seating between more casual and a little more private and refined,” he said, including some pretty unique seating booths.

There will likewise be “a large beer garden” featured on the east side of the building, where the design features plenty of dark metalwork.

Regarding the name Union Works Brewing, “I’ve always cringed a little bit about using the name ‘Works,’” Works laughed.

“But we want this place to have a local focus,” and the name is part of that approach.

For instance, “of course, there’s the Civil War connection,” given that Humboldt was a Union town sacked by Confederate forces during that time, and “the paper is the Humboldt Union.”

Union Works even procured the old news office’s neon sign and have plans to repurpose it.

“Labor is also part of it,” noted Works. “It’s a town of work and we’re working with the materials of local industry.”

Hence, the name is partly “a celebration of labor and industry in the area.”

(If you’re wondering, there’s already a Humboldt Brewing Company in California.)

A wide-angle image of Union Works Brewing Co. reveals a recently-removed floor. Photo by Trevor Hoag

The historic brewery in Humboldt was simply called The Humboldt Brewery, and was located on the eastern banks of the Neosho near the current Marsh Arch Bridge. It was built in 1868 and operated until Prohibition dealt it a deathblow.

Indeed, “doing this project made us interested in the history of brewing in Humboldt,” said Works.

“It’s kind of coming full circle. … where you brew locally and drink what’s brewed locally.”

As for the larger focus of the brewery project, Works explained how “much of this concept is about bringing people in from outside the community.”

“These ‘A Bolder Humboldt’ projects are focused on providing what people who live here want to have, … but to make these concepts work economically, you have to expand your market,” he noted.

And indeed, Works is confident that folks will drive significant distances to be part of the brew pub action.

“We also like the connection to the trail head,” he said. “Bike down from Iola, have a couple beers, and bike back.”

It’s a notion to which many will excitedly raise a glass.

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